How to train your dog to sit

1. Stand in front of your dog.
   
2. Hold a treat right near your pet’s nose, just out of his or her reach.
   
3. Slowly move the treat over your pup’s head and toward his or her tail.
   
4. Say your dog’s name, and give the command “Sit”, and use a hand gesture with your free hand.
   
5. Keep the treat at nose level. If the treat is held too high, the dog will jump.
   
6. Say the word “good” at the exact second the dog sits.
   
7. Praise abundantly and give your pet a treat for any movement that resembles the sit position.
   
8. Repeat a few times.
   
9. ALWAYS FINISH TRAINING ON A POSITIVE NOTE!
   
   
   

   Chelsea Dogs

Tags: dog, dogs, puppy, sit, train, training, treat

Dog Hygiene

Keeping a dog healthy is very much the job of the dog owner. While it is necessary to take your dog for regular checkups at the veterinarian if you don’t take care of the simple things at home then your dog will end up with more serious problems.

Ears: At least once a week it is good to check your dog’s ears. This is especially true if you have a breed with either long ears or very hairy ears.
You should check for any unusual odors, redness, or inflammation.
Should your dog have any of these symptoms, contact your veterinarian and set up an appointment to have your dog checked.To clean out excess dirt from your dog’s ears use a cotton ball soaked in alcohol or baby oil. Be careful to not clean too deeply into your dog’s ear canal.

Eyes: In general if your dog is healthy its eyes should appear shiny, clean and be completely wide open. It is a good idea to regularly wipe any discharge away from your dog’s eyes. A good time to do this is when you are giving your dog its regular grooming. To clean your dog’s eyes simply use a warm moist washcloth. Some breeds are much more susceptible to eye problems than others and it is common for some breeds to have an almost constant discharge. Regardless of what breed you have, if you notice that there is yellow or green discharge in your dog’s eyes you should talk to your veterinarian about it. Dog breeds with white hair some times develop discoloration around their eyes due to excessive tearing. You can buy some solutions that can reduce this discoloration. Be sure to talk with your dog’s veterinarian before buying any health care products for your dog.

Teeth: Unlike cats, dogs need help keeping their teeth clean and healthy. Some breeds are predisposed to having dental problems that can sometimes be very serious and require dental surgery. Because dogs are prone to having problems with cavities, plaque build up and periodontal diseases you will typically want to clean your dog’s teeth a couple times a week. And be sure to check your dog’s teeth, gums (and breath) for signs of potential problems. To clean your dog’s teeth you can either use a normal soft bristled toothbrush or you can buy a specially designed dog toothbrush. Make sure to not use human toothpaste though as it can make your dog sick. It is also a good idea to have your dog’s teeth cleaned by its veterinarian on a regular basis.

Chelsea Dogs

How To Stop Your Dog Pulling On The Lead

Dogs tend to pull on the lead either because they are over excited or becuase they have too much energy that they have not been able to release though exercise and games. To stop your dog pulling, use a halti or a lead all the way to the top of the neck – like they do in dog shows. They pull up, not backwards. When you pull up, you slow the brain down and you can stop the dog pulling. Don’t do this training outside, begin in your home. Train yourself to understand the mechanics. You must control the indoor world before the outdoor one.

Chelsea Dogs

Tags: dog, dogs, energy, exercise, lead, pulling, walking

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Puppy Development: Stage Four

3 – 6 Months

Stage 4 begins your puppy’s introduction to independence, but may also create some possible frustrating situations for you. With her senses more or less fully developed, and her improved physical coordination, the puppy is entering into a phase that is remarkably close to toddlerhood in human beings. Think “terrible twos” on a canine level.

During this stage, the puppy will attempt to determine the social rankings within her new “pack”. This may include the same kind of play-fighting that she engaged in with her brothers and sisters, but now directed at you and the rest of her new “littermates.” In wild packs, these kinds of dominance games serve a vital function. Puppy is testing her boundaries within her social circle, seeing if she has what it takes to physically challenge her peers and even you, her pack leader. If you don’t step in and discourage this kind of dominance-seeking behavior early on – or, worse yet, if you allow your puppy to “win” at dominance games such as wrestling or Tug-of-War – it could set the stage for more serious challenges to your leadership down the road.

Play-biting may also escalate during this stage, and it should be considered vitally important to correct this behavior rather than allow it to continue. Be sure to correct immediately to allow the puppy to connect the behavior with the correction, and be consistent!

Between months 4 and 6, you may find your puppy exhibiting signs of a return to the flight phase that she went through during or around week 8. However, unlike at 8 weeks, when the puppy’s flight was fueled by her reaction to the startling new environment, this new phase will be more closely associated with the independent and rebellious stage that she’s going through. A collar and leash will provide the crucial physical connection between you that can keep her from bolting when you approach. Do not allow her to roam off leash in any open or highly populated public area until she demonstrates to you that she is willing to accept your commands. And don’t forget your most powerful tool: your calm-assertive energy and balanced pack leadership!

Hide your designer shoes! During stage 4, you can expect your puppy to begin teething, which means that unless you provide her with suitable chew toys to occupy herself and relieve her discomfort, she is liable to destroy some of your treasured belongings. Many people take this kind of destructive behavior as a form of “personal” rebellion by the puppy, but think about it. Doesn’t it make sense that the puppy would seek out as attractive items that are most saturated with your scent? If your puppy does find and mangle a precious possession of yours, DO NOT react with anger! Remember to maintain balance and provide firm, calm corrections. Once you have corrected your puppy, immediately provide her with an acceptable substitute to make the connection in her mind. Frozen bones may provide pain relief for a dog in great discomfort and also a reward for responding to your corrections with calm-submissive energy.

During this stage, many new owners become concerned by the sight of blood on their new puppy’s chew toys. Don’t panic. This is a completely natural part of this phase of the puppy’s development as she begins to lose her milk teeth. Still, if you have persistent concerns, be sure to discuss the matter with your family veterinarian. Ask about proper dental care – when and how to brush (ideally once a week or more) and which products to use. Certain products such as raw bones may be perfect both for soothing the dog’s chewing instincts and for removing plaque and tartar buildup around her teeth and gums.

Finally, this stage will usher in the beginnings of sexual maturation in your puppy, which may lead to some extra frustrations. Marking and scenting can become a problem around the house even if the puppy has been successfully housebroken. The best and safest way to avoid these problems while simultaneously decreasing the chances of many future health risks is to have her sterilized if you haven’t already done so. Sterilization is a still debated topic among many dog owners and veterinarians, but most veterinary professionals agree that a safe and optimal time to have the procedure done is when the puppy is about 6 months old.

By Cesar Millan

Chelsea Dogs

Tags: dog, pack leader, puppy, puppy development, puppyhood

Puppy Development: Stage Three

4 – 12 Weeks

Week 4 to week 12 typically comprise the third stage of puppy development. During this stage, the senses begin to mature and socialization becomes an important part of the puppy’s life. It is critical during this key phase that the puppy be able to interact with other dogs and with people.

For the first few weeks of this phase, it’s likely that the only other dogs the puppy will have access to are his mother and littermates. His normal body temperature should be approximately 100 degrees Fahrenheit, and his system will begin regulating that temperature naturally. Additionally, the instinct to squat will take over and external stimulation will no longer be required for the puppy to move his bowels.

Early socialization will manifest as a basic kind of play with the puppy’s littermates – wrestling and a reserved play-biting known as “inhibited bite.” This is the way in which the puppy will begin to learn about social structure and pack ranking. Rules, boundaries, and limitations set by his mother begin to take shape. Physical co-ordination and eyesight are still not fully developed, but the puppy’s mobility will have progressed beyond wiggling, rolling, and flopping around.

Weeks 5 through 7 are a good time for the puppy to begin his early socialization with people. His sense of hearing should be well-developed enough to allow the possibility of command conditioning using positive reinforcement, as well as name recognition – the puppy will begin to respond to the name that his human handlers have chosen for him. But remember: he will always be animal first, then species, then breed, and THEN name.

The puppy’s fear response to sudden startling sights and sounds will begin to emerge at or around this point in his development, so exposure to any normal household objects and noises and association with positive experiences is very important. Also, the kind of play that puppy is used to with his littermates, including the “inhibited bite,” or “mouthing,” may begin to appear in his interaction with his human handlers. It is crucial to remember that this kind of behavior can often escalate and lead to dominance or aggression, and should be discouraged.

Even during this late phase, make sure to stay alert about the possibility of infection. The health of the puppy should be carefully monitored, as should any and all interaction with human handlers who may pose a risk of communicable disease. The puppy should receive another worming at this stage, and then regular monthly wormings from this point on. And you should discuss with your vet inoculations that could help to boost the puppy’s immunities. Sometime around week 6 or 7, the puppy should begin the weaning process, moving from mothers milk onto formulas and then ultimately solid foods that his human handlers will provide.

Week 8 is where you can expect to come into your new puppy’s life if you have chosen to adopt through a reputable breeder. Make sure that you coordinate with the breeder and your veterinarian to determine that the puppy has been wormed prior to the adoption and to find out what shots, if any, the puppy may still need.

Because the puppy has spent his early weeks developing in the company of his mother and his brothers and sisters, his mental processes should be mature enough to handle the move from the breeder to your home, and he should be receptive to training. Still, just because your puppy has been socialized doesn’t mean he doesn’t still need your guidance from day one! Don’t forget to get right to work setting your new pack’s rules, boundaries, and limitations and consistently enforcing them. Your new puppy is easily influenced by your pack leadership, so keep it balanced and consistent! Housetraining and introduction to the sights and sounds of your puppy’s new home should begin right away. Positive experiences associated with the various new elements of your puppy’s life will help ensure a smooth transition. And don’t forget that your puppy is still a social animal! If you have no other dogs or pets, try to find calm, vaccinated dog pals for him to interact with. This could prevent issues that may arise later on from lack of socialization.

By Cesar Millan

Chelsea Dogs

Tags: dog, pack leader, puppy, puppy development, puppyhood

Puppy Development: Stage Two

Stage 2: 2 – 4 Weeks

The puppy’s eyes will open at or around the beginning of this second stage of development. His new sense of sight will be limited and very sensitive, so to avoid eye damage, care must be taken to protect him from bright lights. Despite these limitations, the puppy will now begin to recognize and interact with things in his environment, including (most importantly!) his mother and littermates. Many experts consider this the “toddler” stage of development as the puppy becomes more alert and learns to crawl, stand, and ultimately walk. With this new mobility, he will also begin to attempt to better explore his surroundings.

As the second stage progresses, the puppy’s body becomes better at regulating its own temperature. However, he still depends mostly on his mother and the ambient temperature in the environment to maintain a healthy balance. Rapid or extreme temperature changes can be harmful to his system. The first teeth emerge during this stage, and as the puppy learns to lap he will become more comfortable and better equipped to drink milk from a bottle or dish if necessary rather than relying on his mother as the only source of nourishment. In addition, the puppy’s instinct to relieve himself away from the den will kick in, and he should no longer require any external stimulation to urinate or move his bowels.

Near the end of the second stage of development, the puppy’s sense of hearing continues to improve, and sight and smell should already be well-developed. The order in which these senses fully mature will continue to inform the way he experiences the world around him: nose, eyes, and then ears. It’s important at this stage to encourage the bond between the puppy and human beings by exposing the puppy to gentle handling by human caretakers.

By Cesar Millan

Chelsea Dogs

Tags: pack leader, puppy, puppy development, puppyhood

Puppy Development: Stage One

For any successful pack leader, it’s important to have a keen understanding of the way your puppy will develop. Puppyhood is a relatively short stage in your dog’s life, but it’s also one of the most crucial. The majority of responsible breeders will wait until a puppy is two months old before allowing you to adopt. These two months allow the puppy to spend time with its littermates and learn basic social skills. For families who are expecting puppies born at home, we’ve put together a handy reference to guide you through what you can expect from the early stages of development.

Stage 1: Birth – 2 weeks

After an initial gestation period of approximately 2 months, a puppy is born blind and deaf – less developed than a human baby. This first stage of development is often referred to as “neonatal.” For most of this stage, the puppy is entirely dependent on its mother In addition to their sensory handicap after birth, their movement is severely limited, they cannot regulate their own body temperature, and they require special stimulation to remove waste products. They can, however, cry, and the suck reflex is already strong. Smell, touch, and taste are all active and strong. Within the first week after birth, a puppy will normally double its own weight.

The puppy’s ear canals will open right around the 2 week mark, allowing it to hear sounds for the first time. The sense of hearing will fully develop over the course of the next few stages. Socialization is important at every stage of a puppy’s life, but is perhaps most important during the neonatal period. The puppy will be learning the basics from its mother and littermates; movement, social etiquette, and most important of all: rules, boundaries, and limitations!

By Cesar Millan

Chelsea Dogs

Tags: birth, dog, pack leader, puppy, puppy development, puppyhood

Why Dogs Need Exercise…

Every dog, especially puppies or young dogs have a lot of energy. If they do not get the chance to burn it off during the day, it can lead to destructive behaviour. This is why my dog walks are full of great games and plenty of interaction with other dogs which will provide the mental and physical stimulation that each dog needs daily to remain ‘balanced’ and happy. Dogs that do not get enough exercise can become overweight which in turn can lead to various health risks including diabetes, respiratory disease and heart disease. Doggy day care is a great way for your dog to interact with other dogs and humans and become well socialised.

Dogs are pack animals after all and doggy day care on a regular basis can give your dog the natural feeling of belonging to a pack. The dogs will go walking together in the parks and play together during the day, getting plenty of socialisation and mental stimulation that will keep them happy and healthy.

An exercised dog may rest more calmly at home and be less nervous when left alone. Exercise can improve dogs bone and joint health, heart, and lung function.

The best exercise channels the activity of both mind and body. Make your walks interesting. Let your dog carry a box, a basket, or a toy while walking. Let your dog jump or balance over a tree, hide his toys, hide yourself, and most important – let him play with other dogs!

Teach your dog to retrieve. A dog who retrieves is easy to exercise. But throw the toy rather far than high. Jumping high in the air to chase it and landing awkwardly may lead to serious knee injuries.

Chelsea Dogs

Tags: dog, dog exercise, dog health, dog walks, doggy day care, exercise your dog

Welcome to the Chelsea Dogs Blog!

Welcome to the Chelsea Dogs Blog!

This is where you will find all our latest news, activities and general pet keeping advice!

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